"I believe in manicures. I believe in overdressing. I believe in primping at leisure and wearing lipstick. I believe that laughing is the best calorie burner. I believe in kissing; kissing a lot. I believe in being strong when everything seems to be going wrong. I believe that happy girls are the prettiest girls. I believe that tomorrow is another day, and I believe in miracles."- Audrey Hepburn

Sep 14, 2011

Where the wild things are [part 1]


There are certain things I thought I would never get to do in life ...

... and one of those things including finding myself living a scene from The Lion King - exploring the savanna, observing animals in their natural habitat, gazing stars while camping in the safari, etc. I would have to say it was one of the most unreal and unbelievable thing I have ever experienced, despite all the crazy things that I have gone through while travelling. Plus, there were all these animals … Actually, I need to stop getting too excited and jump ahead of myself. Let's start from the beginning.

Admist the ever-changing and unpredictable semi-nice weather of Cape Town winter and the fact that it is only September, the idea of spring break and a getaway was extremely enticing. After pulling my hair and banging my head on the table for two weeks straight, I had finally managed to decently finish a ridiculous number of essays and papers. Again, for a biology major, 4 essays x 8 pages each was just a little bit too much. After turning the last one (and the most miserable one) in at 10am on Monday morning, I declared myself the status of "on vacation", regardless of the fact that the official break did not start until Friday and that all my friends wanted to kill me as they were still stressed out about their assignments.

Didn't turn out as pretty as I wanted, sad.
Photo taken by Susan
Time passed by painfully slowly as I awaited the day of the trip. But you know, finally, Friday arrived. It had to. In order to cheer up the super exhausted and stressed out Spencer after her exam, I made bacon toasted egg cups, which apparently also helped lighten up Susan's night. After stomaching lots of delicious food and a bottle of rose wine, we all decided that watching The Lion King before the night of the real safari was a must. So we settled down on the couch, set up the huge projector screen, ordered ice creams from McDonalds, chugged wine and had the time of our lives. It only felt like we were on break then, and the idea that what I was watching on the screen would be what I got to see a few day later brought me a ridiculous amount of excitement. Spencer and I started watching Tangled after that, attempted to stay up all night since we had to wake up at 4 in the morning to catch our flight. Obviously, we fell asleep half-way through. 

Early sunshine Saturday morning, as much of a morning person I am, it was way too early to open the door to an extremely  cheerful Eddie, who demanded a hug from all of us (a "squeeze" as he called it) and went on about everything we needed to do before we left. I was still slowly finishing my routine and waking up my brain, I swore I wanted to punch the poor guy. Thanks goodness, my crankiness level was under control. Sweet guy though, just too much sugar too early in the morning. To make it even worse, the 20 minute ride to the airport was a torture of very unsuitable choice of music, blasted at full volume. Elton John at 5am? I don't think so.

It was the first time I flew with a group of friends so I actually had butterflies in my stomach. It was like an overnight school field trip that I never got to go throughout my entire school life (my parents are strict and no overnight trip with friends were kind of a family rule). After checking in our luggage, we all headed to a restaurant at the airport for breakfast. Nothing fancy - just sunny side-up eggs, toasts, potatoes and mushroom (for the vegetarian me) but I had a fabulous time enjoying having a leisure breakfast and great conversations with friends. I have always hated flying by myself and spending all the time at the airport alone. Thus, for me, this was quite a precious moment.

After a two hour flight and a four hour bus drive, which all of us kind of slept through effortlessly, we reached the first destination of our trip - the Sudwala Caves.  Hold on, before I get to the caves, I need to talk about the flight. One of our flight attendants appeared to have a [ridiculously] lot of sense of humor. While she was giving us safety instructions and the normal routine, you know, "Please fasten your seatbelt" and "Enjoy the flight", she always seemed to manage to add in [quite random] dirty jokes. Yes, you heard me, or read me. Things such as "In case of emergency, the mask will be dropped in from of you from above, you can put it over your mouth, fasten the side, and *whisper* breath baby … breath", or "While the seatbelt sign is on, please fasten your seatbelt, stay in your seat and refrain from walking, running, screaming or, moaning *straight face*". We thought it was entertaining. The old couple at the row behind us, I am not entirely sure.

 So where was I? Oh, the caves. A little bit of background from what I remember. The Sudwala Caves are the oldest known cave in the world and they have some of the second oldest known sedimentary rocks on earth (for some reason I feel like everything I've been to in Africa is the [oldest]). There are, obviously, various types of rocks, which people always seem to manage to be creative enough to give them certain shapes: the nuns praying, the horse, the devil, the weeping lady, fairies fountain, the monkey typing on a laptop, the chocolate covered vanilla ice cream (ok, I made up the last one, but it did look like ice cream, I promise). I have always been amazed by how caves are formed and how long it took them. Every time I walked into one I feel like I'm being intrusive on their private life. Just looking at all these rocks, deep in the heart of the mountain, slowly doing their own thing and then there are these people who just walk in, putting color lights on them, making molds and plants grow on them because of the artificial light, screaming at the top of their lungs to play with the echo, using hammer to bang at them to listen to different sounds, and more random things. If I were a rock, I'd get pissed off. No one can just walk in in my alone time, and give me random names about my shape and make fun of it, because maybe it is not what I mean to make at all. Okay, I think I had a moment there. Speaking of caves, one minute advertising. In Vietnam, we have many gorgeous caves that you can explore, especially those that sit right on top of the ocean and you have to go in with a small boat or canoe. They recently discovered the largest cave in the world, and you can come their for rock climbing and I think they want to put in bungee jumping. For more ridiculous thing, people with money can  actually arrange to have a [romantic] candle-lit dinner in the middle of the cave set up for them (if you want to invite me out for dinner to impress me, now you know). Tourism, I tell you, is a surprisingly creative field.


6pm - we arrived at Old Vic, a backpacker place with a motto "home away from home". It did give out a really homey feeling, with small garden and backyard, a medium size outdoor swimming pool, a comfortable living room and mini bar attached to the kitchen, a cozy dining room with several small tables and a gorgeous wooden deck with comfy couches and the view of the mountain. We spent the afternoon hanging out on the deck. It was a relaxing and chilled atmosphere, except for when people got too excited about the little adorable puppy in the neighbor backyard, lol. Finally, it's dinner time. What's better than delicious home-made food after a long day of travelling and packed meals? Oh I know, a meal with around 5 dishes, out of which 4 were vegetarian. During the entire trip, Toni, Qamar and I, the vegetarians were always catered to the core and always got to be served first, even though 90% of the entire meal were veggies, and usually there was only one dish of meat. After finished a plateful of curry rice, vegetable stew, jam squash (OMG, I'm in love with this I could write an entire blog entry about this thing) and salad, I started to treat myself to a [plenty] amount of dessert. It was Maxine's - our program director - birthday so there was birthday cake and chocolate cupcake, decorated with glitter. I felt like I gained lots of weight after this break because every single meal we had was followed by delicious dessert, and we had like 2 birthdays during the course of 5 days. People had more than one chance to make fun of me about my love for dessert and Wes has somehow managed to get out of me several promises to bake him several things. *sigh* I always get overly excited about baking and [always] tell people that I'd bake for them, I really need to fix this habit. Anyway, we were all worn out after a long day of travelling, and we had to be up by 4am the next morning so all of us decided to go to bed early. I had a great bonding time with Megan, Carimah, Monica, and Toni doing all the girls talk, and interesting conversations with Spencer and Sam while watching the hit music videos of the 80s. 9pm - I called it a night.




5am Sunday morning - 16 of us were packed rushed out of dining room, with toasts and bananas in hands, into three jeeps and headed out for Kruger National Park - the safari trip officially began. A little bit of background on Kruger. It is said that this area has been the home of the wilds since a long time ago. There has been artifacts and fossils found in Kruger from the Early Stone Age, up through the Iron Age and to modern day. Kruger officially became a national park in the late 1890s. It covers around 7500 square miles and is actually part of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park, which links Kruger with two other national parks in Zimbabwe and Mozambique. There are a total of 9 different gates to enter the park. I guess that is sufficient for background information for now. I will give random quick facts about animals as I mention them later. Note: facts are all given to me by Andraan, our driver/tour guide/professional bow hunter with an incredible memory (yes, I actually paid attention and took note even more careful than I do in class). 

Pic taken by Liz
The people in my jeep:  Spencer, Toni, Sarah, Gina, Maddie, Liz, and Wes. We arrived at the gate to Kruger just as the sun was rising. The first sunrise on the safari of my life, yay! Our ultimate goal was to spot all five of the big Five: lion, leopard, Cape buffalo, elephant and rhino. These are known as the big Five because they are the most dangerous and hardest to hunt. Besides these big animals though, we all had certain ones that we wanted to see: Monica is in love with giraffes, Liz - baby rhinos, Spencer - cheetah/leopard, and me - I was a little more than obsessed with zebras. The first animal we ran into was the impalas - these little Bambi-like creature. Andraan was nice enough to stop for us to take pictures but he laughed and told us that we were going to get sick of these soon. "The impalas are known as McDonalds for the "M" pattern on their butt and the fact that you will run into them every corner" - he said. True to words, by noon, we were somewhere around "Hey, there's something over there. Nvm, just impalas." (Quick fact: there are about 90000 impalas in Kruger)

I have always thought that big animals such as rhinos, elephants, giraffes, or zebras are easy to spot because … they are humongous and they really don't have that much of a camouflage pattern. I was completely wrong. Even though the tall grass are brownish-yellow and the trees are green, to spot a grey rhino or elephant is nothing close to easy. During the two days, it took the collaborative effort of all 10 of us to spot animals, in addition with all the people in the other two jeeps. Andraan has an amazing skill of spotting animals that were like 20 feet away and pointed out to us specific types of animals while all I could see was a big blob of grey color, that if I could see them at all. I couldn't possible be able to report all the animals that we saw because we did ran into a lot of them. We got really up close with an elephant that was crossing the road and one that was trying to look for food or water right by the road and completely oblivious of us staring at it from above for like 15 minutes (Quick fact: there are about 12000 elephants in the park and they can actually hold only 8000. So they actually tried to use contraception on the elephants but failed to because the elephants got really upset about the contraceptives.) We found 3 out of the 5 within the first morning: elephants, buffalos and rhinos (although the rhinos were kind of far away). Other animals that we ran into: zebras (<3), giraffes, wildebeest, bushbuck, waterbuck, kudus, eagles, monkeys (Rafiki!), baboons, warthogs (Bumbaa!), random types of birds (owls, ZAZU!), and a jackel. Andraan said jackels only came out at night and the fact that we saw it during the day time was extremely rare.


Around noon, we stopped at a golf court area for a delicious lunch before heading out for the road again. At this time, the sun was incredibly warm and I managed to get a decent nice tan just by sitting in the jeep. There were these passive-aggressive hippos at the place we ate lunch. They were just lying in the water, with no motion until we got about 5 feet to the water and they snapped and growled. Never thought hippo could be so angry, I guess I don't want a hippopotamus for Christmas after all. Due to the heat, all the animals were no where to be seen around this time of the day (except for the 24/7 McDonalds of course) and some of us were getting tired and dozed off into nice naps. It was then that the leopard made it appearance and hyped us up. We were told that there was a leopard sleeping on a tree at one of the road nearby, so Andraan made an action-movie like move and speeded there. In due time, the leopard appeared, leisurely walking around while we quietly observed him/her. I felt like we were in a suspense movie, sitting in a jeep in the middle of the safari, didn't dare to talk or breathe too much.I have always thought that leopards are beautiful creatures, but to see one walking among the tall grass was just breath-taking. Their ability to camouflage is incredible, the moment I took my eyes of it to get my camera to focus, it took me a little of time to locate it again. Not to bore you with more details, we watched the leopard for almost 20 minutes, while it walked around, got into a tunnel, waited for it to get out of the tunnel, scaring the birds, etc. It was like watching an uncut version of National Geographic. That brought us up to 4 out of the 5. One more to tackle: Simba the Lion!

By 4pm, we decided to head back to our rest camp. Andraan was nice enough to offer to take us on a sunset drive. Another thing I thought I would have never gotten to do in my life - to watch the gorgeous sunset on the safari, to see the breath-taking scenery that is often depicted in movies and paintings. Andraan took us to a spot higher up that entailed a view of Kruger - everything we saw was Kruger.

"So until where is Kruger?" - I asked
"To where the light touches" - Spencer said

Lol, perfect line at the perfect moment. We watched the sky turned pink and purple while the orange sun slowly disappeared behind ranges of mountains, turning the trees into these printed silhoutte against the sky, and sipping beer while doing it (classy, lol!). To make it even better, we saw a second leopard, up close. Quick fact: there's only 1000 leopards over 100,000 kilometer squares. It was one hell of luck for us to spot 2 within a day. We headed back to our camp to a nice bbq dinner waiting for us. We spent an enjoyable and relaxing night sitting around the fire - bonding time. At one point we decided to go out to the outdoor pool and did stargazing. I kept having that scene of Simba looking at the stars in my mind, lol.

 It was unreal, living the moment, without any worries, under the African sky.

The 2nd day was pretty much the same as the first - animal hunting crunch time. We really had our minds set on the lions. We did see a lot animals closer this time: rhinos 10 steps away, kudus right at my nose, and lots of giraffes. At this point, I voted giraffes the most graceful of all - everything about them is elegant: the way they eat, when they move, even when they fight. Some of us saw a giraffe fight and recorded it, it didn't even look like they were fighting, at all. As much as we didn’t want to, the day slowly came to an end. When we headed to the Crocodile Bridge, one of the gates, we were kind of in denial and did not want to leave, especially since we weren't able to find lions yet. For me, I got my share of zebras and a decent amount of good pictures, I was perfectly happy. We went back to Old Vic to be welcomed with more delicious food and more bonding time. During the course of three days, Monica somehow introduced us to the most terrible song - "Gucci Gucci", and it kept being brought up as a joke among us. Some of the sentences in the lyrics kind of became our inside jokes and "motto": "One big room, full of bad bitches" and "I've got this swag and it's pumping out of my ovaries" (?). Terrible song, but it was, nevertheless, entertaining in its own way.

Crazy Dave (the owner of Old Vic) was an extremely nice and friendly guy, who made sure that we all had an incredible time and everything we needed while we stayed, even gave us T-shirts as souvernirs. My first tourist-y t-shirt, lol! It was kind of sad leaving in the morning. As I settled back and got ready for another 3 hour long bus drive, I had mixed feelings. The experience was so unbelievable I wanted to do it again, yet I knew there were more to come, and they would be just as equally incredible.

[To be continued]
[az] 

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